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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.